Tropicbird Sailing

Blueberries and Irene

2011-09-06T10:23:00.001-04:00

August is the month when Maine blueberries are ripe, and also the month when the tropical storm season really picks up steam. This August we have managed to survive both a tendency to overdose on blueberries and Hurricane Irene.

Maine wild blueberries ripening at Jordan Pond, Mt Desert Island.

Maine blueberries grow wild (although on some farms they are ."encouraged") on bushes less than knee high in rocky barren ground The berries are small, half the diameter of commercially cultivated blueberries. However, I believe that plants like blueberries provide a fixed amount of sweetness and flavor to each berry. The tiny "wild" berries concentrate the flavor in a smaller fruit. (If you have ever had a wild strawberry to compare with the supermarket variety, you know what I mean).

Blueberry "ployes" (pancakes) on the griddle aboard TROPICBIRD.

Pancakes are our favorite vehicle for the ingestion of blueberries. The ones we make on the boat are a whole-wheat/buckwheat cake. The package of mix claims they are French Canadian in origin, called "ployes". the mix is made here locally in Maine.

This August we also departed from our usual summer schedule, got off the boat for a few days, and made two "road trips". The first trip, in early August, was to Peacham, VT to attend a memorial service for Jane's Aunt Thora who passed away recently at the age of 96. The memorial service was also somewhat of a family reunion bringing together scattered cousins Jane had not seen in many decades. Peacham, in the Northeaster part of Vermont, is the home of Jane's mother's ancestors at least back into the 1840's. It is a small town in beautiful rolling hills that tourism and "development" has largely bypassed (you can't buy a "Peacham" T-shirt). The service was in a wonderful old Congregational church, supposedly the third oldest meetinghouse in Vermont, built in 1806. The drive from Maine through the White Mountains of New Hampshire (no Interstate) was also very scenic.

Later in August, we went to Greenville, ME on Moosehead Lake, to visit a friend I have known since graduate school. Moosehead is a beautiful large lake (40 mi long) with many islands, and is surrounded by mountains and the wilderness of Maine's "north woods".

Unfortunately, we had only a couple of days, but we did get out on the lake in Bruce's restored 1938 Richardson 28' runabout. It has a 1941 Chrysler 6 cylinder engine that runs great at 70 years of age (probably in better shape than I am in, born the same year, ).

We also got to tour the "Steamboat" Katahdin. Built in 1914 by the Bath Ironworks (which now builds the latest in US Navy guided missile destroyers). It was used for various purposes over the years including towing huge rafts of logs down the lake. Now powered by Detroit Diesels it is a National Historic Landmark and takes tourists for excursions on the lake.

When we returned to our boat from Greenville, we learned that Hurricane Irene was on its way. We got provisions and headed for Cabot Cove in Pulpit Harbor on the north side of North Haven Island.

Cabot Cove, Pulpit Harbor, North Haven, ME as Hurricane Irene approached. Strong winds from the SE were blocked by a ridge to the left. Only a few gusts can be seen rippling the surface as the stronger winds blew overhead.

It is a great "huricane hole" only about 300 yards wide and less than a half mile long, protected by a low ridge along the southeast side. It is good we got there early since there is not much room to anchor. The worst winds we had were probably only a little over 20 knots though it was gusting to 40 outside.

After the storm was over we revisited Rockland briefly to get provisions. Then sailed southwest toward Casco Bay passing several of the famous lighthouses of the Maine coast.

Owls Head Light with the Camden Hills in the distance as we leave Rockland and start down the Muscle Ridge Channel.

Marshal Point Light and Port Clyde.

Sailing past the Cuckholds Light off Boothbay Harbor.

The Seguin Island Light off the mouth of the Kennebec River. This is the light that guided the big schooners more than 100 years ago. A sailboat is at one of the day moorings at the island.

We arrived at The Basin on the New Meadows river, one of our favorite spots, where we met some cruising friends have spent several days.


A quiet morning in The Basin with a few wisps of fog drifting in from the river.

We are now at Snow Island in Quahog Bay, only a few miles from Yarmouth, getting ready to head for the Royal River Boatyard in a couple of days to be hauled out for the winter.

Penobscot Bay to Mount Desert Island

2011-08-02T15:22:00.003-04:00

It has been more than a month since we started our cruise from Yarmouth. We have had generally good weather, and the first three days out were perfect allowing us to reach Tenants Harbor in Penobscot Bay. Since then we have been visiting favorite anchorages and towns between Rockland and Mt. Desert Island. We have also enjoyed meeting old cruising friends, and spending a week with friends who drove here from Houston. A verbal recounting of the details would be boring (to write as well as read) so a few photos here instead give a feeling for our cruise. (If you are interested in bird photos from Maine check out our Birding Blog also.)

South Island Light at Tenants Harbor, ME in the early morning.

Lobster boats at sunset in Tenants Harbor, ME.

"Windjammers" (passenger cruise schooners) on parade off the jetty at Rockland, ME.

Sunset in Pulpit Harbor, North Haven, ME.

Cloud formations in Seal Bay, Vinalhaven, ME

"Windjammer" "J&E Riggin" sailing through Casco Passage.

Rainbow at sunset from the anchorage at Devil Island near Stonington, ME

The other end of the rainbow lands on Devil Island. The complete arc was to large to get in a single photo.

Goose Rocks Light at the east end of the Fox Island Thorofare.

Private schooner with immaculate brightwork (varnished wood) in Northeast Harbor, ME, one of many beautiful old wooden boats we see in Maine.

Anchorage at Somesville. The closer boat was from Argyle, Scotland, and the further one from Victoria, BC, Canada.

Tropicbird a few days ago in one of our favorite anchorages, Seal Bay on Vinalhaven Island, ME.

Boat Work Times Two

2011-06-23T10:48:00.002-04:00

As many of you know the time and energy any boat project takes is at least twice the amount originally estimated.

[If you could care less about boat work, scroll down now to the scenic video at the bottom of this blog.]

Along with the usual spring commissioning work, we finally had to do something about the paint on the hull topsides. The 15-year old Awlgrip (paint) was cracked and peeling in places, and it had to be extensively sanded before painting.

The first photo shows part of the hull near the starboard bow. The "blotches" are where the old paint had to be completely sanded off. (After holding a 20-lb. industrial sander over my head all day, I definitely did not need to go to the gym for a workout.)

Portion of the starboard side of the hull showing areas where old paint was sanded off. The whole surface was sanded at least lightly

The first error may have been deciding to do it ourselves, but the biggest error was definitely deciding to do it in the open yard from a ladder. I didn't count how many trips I made up and down the ladder, but I sure feel it now in my knees and feet. I will have it moved under cover and get a stage [scaffold] set up "next time" (if I am not too old for anther time).

After sanding, two coats of two-part polyurethane (Interlux Perfection) was applied with a roller. The red stripes and white hull sides were done on separate days (4 days total).

Starboard side from the stern after painting. Note the reflection of the ladder in the glossy surface. (The transom was not repainted as it had been repainted a few years ago due to some storm damage.)

It's not quite like a professional spray painted job (~$9K), but it passes the 20-foot test (you can't see the blemishes from more than 20' away).

This job extended our time in the yard, but we enjoy Yarmouth, and the Royal River Boatyard is a great place to work (try the video below shot at the yard in the morning quiet just before work begins).

Now only a few small jobs remain and we plan to launch on Monday morning (3 days).

Photos and video shot with my iPhone4, and edited using iMovie. This video is reduced resolution from the original HD. Music clip from "Morning Has Broken" in Rowan Tynan's Album "Dawning of the Day" available on iTunes.

I am still experimenting with video. This low resolution version does not appear to be very good in full screen mode, but better versions are too large to download in a reasonable time. )

Back "home" in Maine

2011-06-05T10:50:00.000-04:00

We arrived in Yarmouth three days ago, and took the winter shrink-wrapping off, and got electricity and the plumbing connected. Now we are living aboard again, but blocked up ashore while working on various projects before launching. It is like living in an RV except for having to climb a 12' ladder to get aboard.

Tropicbird under the winter cover when we arrived.

It is great to be back in Maine. The best part is the friends we have here. The day we arrived two couples we know came by in the late afternoon, climbed up the ladder to visit. We enjoyed refreshments and conversation in our cockpit as if we were afloat.

However, we are having to adjust our thin southern blood to the temperature - 43° F this morning.

Jane still in her sleeping bag warming up with a cup of coffee.

2011 Maine Cruising Calendar

2010-12-25T18:38:00.002-05:00

If you need a 2011 Calendar, or would just like to see some more of my pictures of Maine,
download my "2011 Maine Cruising Calendar" as a 2MB PDF . Best wishes for 2011.

Sunset at Merchant's Harbor, ME.

Tropicbird Set for the Winter

2010-11-21T20:10:00.003-05:00

The boat is on the hard in Royal River Boatyard, Yarmouth, ME. We are back in Seabrook, TX. No more blog posts on Tropicbird Sailing until we head north again in May. Take a look at the older posts (see "Blog Archive" in the right hand sidebar), or try our birding blog.

Exploring the Archipelago

2010-09-01T11:53:00.008-04:00

There is an archipelago of numerous small granitic islands, largely uninhabited, between Stonington, Deer Isle and Isle au Haut, ME. Most cruisers in a hurry to get to Mount Desert Island or back to Penobscot Bay, sail through the Deer Isle Thorofare, or the Merchant's Row channel (photo 1). In fact, we also did so in years past. This year we decided to explore some of the islands and anchorages in this archipelago.

Some of the Islands, like Crotch Island (photo 2 to left) were quarried for granite.

One of our favorites was McGlathery Island. Uninhabited and state-owned, cruisers are welcome to explore ashore on its sandy beach. (photo 3)...

... and shoreline of granite slabs.

Unfortunately, even such a seemingly unspoiled area shows signs of man-made pollution. Tar balls like these (photo 4) probably washed ashore years ago and are now baked hard as asphalt in the sun.

There are rough trail into the spruce forest of the interior (photo 5). We did not see much bird or other animal life there.

There were, however, insects - many mosquitoes and a few butterflies like this Red Admiral (photo 6).

There was also a cattail marsh.

Two Least Sandpipers, were the most interesting birds (photo 7). On their migration south, they were foraging for small invertebrates on an exposed bar. Intent on feeding they approached within about 10' while I stood still.

We even got a photo (8) of ourselves with TROPICBIRD in the background at McGlathery Island.

These islands are a favorite with sea kayakers. Several such as Harbor Island (photo 9) have primitive camping sites for kayakers. In the fog, I am sure they are hard to see and must have a very poor radar return. The lobstermen refer to them as "speed bumps".

As usual, there were some spectacular sunsets such as this from Merchant Harbor, looking toward the Camden Hills in the far distance (photo 10).

There were also foggy mornings (Photo 11).

The prevalence of fog amongst these rocky islets makes it imperative to know where you are quite precisely. This boat (photo 12) apparently had some difficulty with position. When we passed, it was high and nearly dry under the keel as it sat on the rocks adjacent to the (aptly named) Wreck Island anchorage.

There are some interesting names for some of the islands and coves. This sunrise photo was taken at "Hells-Half-Acre" (photo 12). Despite the name, it is a very pleasant anchorage.

Maine Boat Show

2010-08-24T11:36:00.003-04:00

We returned to Rockland for the Maine Boats, Homes and Harbors Show. Our primary motivation was to meet friends we have known since graduate school at Berkeley (40 years ago).

We have become tired of most boat shows where one sees the same production boats and array of products. However, the Maine Boat show is unique in our experience. It has none of the mass market boats, instead names like Sabre, Hinkley, Morris, and other custom builders.

In some respects the photo to the left looks like any boat show, until you notice that the first boat on the right is a well kept wooden Concordia yawl. The boat ahead (hard to see) is a Morris sailing yacht, and the one to the left is a custom wood powerboat by a Maine builder.

The boat in the photo to the left is a small powerboat built by Richard Pulsifer. He cuts the wood from his own land, saws and mills it himself and turns out these great little inboard launches (Yanmar 4-cyl diesel). He is a friend of our friends, so later we got a ride around the harbor in this boat.

There are displays of historic boats such as this Downeast Peapod built around 1935.

The Aprenticeshop "a school for traditional boat building" put on a demonstration spiling and fitting a plank on a cedar lapstrake hull fastened with copper rivets.

The local passenger schooner fleet put on a "Parade of Sail". The photo is the AMERICAN EAGLE, Capt. John Foss.

Even the entertainment is unique. The Univ. of Maine at Machais, Ukelele Band played all afternoon from a book of several hundred songs covering virtually all genres.

Rockland to MDI and Back

2010-08-17T09:31:00.006-04:00

This summer Rockland has become somewhat of a "base" for us. For several reasons we keep returning every week or ten days. There are prettier and better protected harbors, but Rockland stands out for having convenient stores and marine services as well as good connections to the big city (Portland) which we have needed. It also has some good restaurants and an excellent art museum.

In other harbors the sunsets are spectacular. In Rockland it is the sunrises over the breakwater and Penobscot bay to the east that are the most beautiful. Of course, one has to get up very early to see the sunrise at its best (before 5 AM).

Since the last post, we spent several days in Seal Bay on Vinalhaven Island with friends on their boats. (There really are a lot of seals there, see photo to left.)

S/V TROPICBIRD anchored in Seal Bay.

Goose Rocks Light (Photo to left) is in the Fox Island Thorofare, a narrow waterway between Vinalhaven and Northhaven Islands on the way to Seal Bay.

After Seal Bay and a brief return to Rockland, we went further east to Mt. Desert Island.

Bass Harbor Bar Light (photo to left) is the "landfall" on Mt. Desert Island coming from from the west.

We anchored in Cranberry Harbor (adjacent to MDI) the first night, and then spent several days on a mooring at Northeast Harbor.

(Photo to left, view of the mountains on MDI from Cranberry Harbor with our friends Block Island 40 sailing.)

There is a free bus service that provides good connections around Acadia National Park and other locations Mt. Desert Island. We took one day to go to Jordan Pond and hike the trail there. (Photo to left, Jordan Pond and the "Bubbles")

Another day we took the bus to Bar Harbor.

After a few days at Northeast we moved a couple of miles to a Hinkley mooring in Southwest Harbor where we met friends who stay there for the season. Hinkley has very nice facilities and surprisingly is not particularly expensive.

(Photo to left, view up Southwest Harbor from Hinkley Moorings.)

We stopped in Buckle Harbor and Pupit Harbor on the return to Rockland. A line of heavy thunderstorms came across Penobscot bay and over Pulpit Harbor just before sunset. Just as the storm passed, the sky to the northwest over the Camden Hills cleared for another spectacular sunset.

Boothbay, Tenants Harbor, & Rockland

2010-07-28T17:28:00.005-04:00

This is the fourth summer we have spent in Maine. Each seems to have a unique character. This year we have generally had rather warm weather with fast moving weather systems giving us some great sailing days as well as some impressive storms.

One of the best days sailing has been from Snow Island past Cape Small to Boothbay Harbor. We had a broad reach all the way with about 10-15 kits of wind and bright sunny skies. Those of you who are cruisers will recognize how unusual it was since we had the engine turned off almost all the way and still made the 25 miles in 5 hours.

Boothbay Harbor (Photo 1, to left) is a classic Maine "tourist attraction" and many local sailors avoid it. But, it does have a certain charm, as well as a nice marina with reasonably priced moorings, laundry and shower facilities. We also have two amateur radio friends who live there that make the visits especially enjoyable.

We made a short run to East Boothbay on the Damariscotta River, and then another very pleasant long run past Pemaquid Point, across Muscongus Bay, past Port Clyde to Tenants Harbor.

(Photo 2, Fisherman's Island Light on passage between Boothbay and East Boothbay.)

(Photo 3, Marshall Point Light at Port Clyde.)

A highlight of this trip was a visit to Eastern Egg Rock (a small rocky island). This is a preserve in Muscongus Bay where many seabirds nest especially the Atlantic Puffins. These were extirpated in the US many years ago, but have been reintroduced at Eastern Egg Rock. We found large numbers of them. The closest were swimming only a 20-30 feet from the boat.
(Photo 4, Puffins at Eastern Egg Rock.)

I think Tenants is one of the prettier harbors in Maine. The South island Light at the entrance is especially picturesque (Photo 5). It is the subject of paintings by Jamie Wyeth and is now owned by him.

The harbor is small with many lobster boats as well as yachts. White clapboard houses and inns overlook the harbor (Photo 6).
The second night we were there a very strong storm system came through, probably the most intense we have seen in Maine. Over 6" of rain were reported, winds were over 30kts and the thunder and lightning were virtually continuous from about 6:30 to 9:30 pm. We were glad to be on a good mooring in a well protected harbor.

But, the next day was mostly sunny with a NW breeze as we sailed up the Muscle Ridge Channel and around Owls Head into Rockland Harbor (Photo 7, Owls Head Light).

As we approached Rockland we found ourselves among a fleet of Friendship sloops racing to a rendezvous in Rockland (Photo 8). These are classic gaff rigged sloops originally developed around Friendship, ME. The wind was 20-25 kits so they were not carrying topsails but were still beautiful to see sailing.

Photo 9, Racing a squall into the harbor past the Rockland Breakwater Light.

Later in the afternoon the Friendship sloops were all moored at the Rockland Public Landing, for the 50th annual "Friendship Sloop Days" (Photo 10).

(Tropicbird is out on one of the moorings in the harbor beyond, but there is also a dinghy dock here where we come in.)

To Snow Island, Quahog Bay, ME

2010-07-16T17:17:00.006-04:00

Monday the 12th was a beautiful clear day with the wind south at 10kts. With the near perfect conditions we left the Royal River and decided to pass up our usual first stop and push on around the Harpswell Peninsula and Bailey's Island on into Quahog Bay and the anchorage east of Snow Island.

(Photo 1 to left -Tropicbird at anchor near Snow Island.)

This is a beautiful and well protected spot. Snow Island is perhaps most noted because it is the home of Dodge Morgan who sailed his 60' cutter "American Promise" non-stop around the world in record time in the mid 1980's. He is now a columnist for the New England sailing magazine Points East. (Photo 2 to left - Dodge Morgan's schooner "Eagle" at its mooring off Snow Island- photo to left.)

Although it is not a "wilderness", there is also a remarkable amount of wildlife. There are Ospreys (Photo 3 to left) and Bald Eagles nesting in the area (we had a great look at the eagle as it came by the boat about 50' away, but of course, my camera was not at hand). Lots of Common Eiders (diving ducks) and Double-crested Cormorants are around as well as the ever present Herring Gulls and Greater Black-backed Gulls. We have also seen from the boat, Snowy Egrets, Common Terns, and a pair of Pileated Woodpeckers drumming on a large dead pine.

We have spent a number of days here, some because of fog (Photo 4 to left) and rain. But, even in poor weather it is a great place to be.

(Photo 5 - Sunset over Snow Island.)

Finally Afloat

2010-07-07T20:45:00.009-04:00

Yesterday the day of launching finally arrived. We had accomplished all the projects we really needed to complete.

At about 9:30am the truck with hydraulic trailer arrived to load the boat.

Being hauled away from our "home on the hard".

Going down the hill to the launch slip.

Loading on the Travelift.

Stepping the mast.

Almost complete.

Sunset from the boat now afloat in the marina. We plan a few more days here calibrating, testing, and provisioning.

Summer Solstice

2010-06-29T04:39:00.017-04:00

One of the pleasures of being in the North at this time of year is the extended daylight. The sun reached its most northerly declination (solstice) and the longest day of the year about a week ago (about 15-1/2 hours). At this more northerly latitude, the length of twilight and the duration of sunsets and sunrises is also extended because the sun intersects the horizon at a more acute angle (about 50% longer in Yarmouth, ME than in Houston, TX).

Sunset from Pulpit Harbor, ME (2007). This spectacular sunset seemed to go on forever. I took more than 50 images over at least an hour. In 2007 the sunsets seemed to have much more color than in more recent years.

At 4:30 AM when I started writing this post, it was already light enough to see things clearly. The birds had begun their "dawn chorus" (I heard 5 species before 5:00 AM). We are not normally early risers, but on the boat we tend to go to bed and arise with the sun. The quiet time between twilight and sunrise is almost magical. Few other people are up, and I can be alone with my thoughts and the bird songs.

Sunrise in the Royal River Boatyard, Yarmouth, ME 5:30am 06/25/2010. Just the birds and I were up.

Home on the Hard

2010-06-10T17:20:00.000-04:00

The view from the deck of our "home" in the boatyard at Royal River

We have been here almost a week now working on the boat, with probably a week to go before we get in the water. We have a couple of big projects to do including installing an electric anchor windlass (a concession to age and infirmity). The surroundings are scenic and the boat is comfortable, rather like an RV campground, with showers and bathroom a few steps away. The toughest part is climbing a 12-foot ladder. But we don't have to worry about the anchor dragging in a blow.

Perhaps the best part is the friends that are here working on their boats or who, with their boats already launched, have stopped by to say hello. Spring fitting out in Maine is different than just working in a boatyard in warmer climates. Many other boat owners are here painting, varnishing, etc. and a sort of camaraderie and sharing of experience develops. Many of the same people we met and enjoyed in past years are here again.

Along the waterfront at the boatyard.

The surroundings of the yard are also unusually scenic with the opposite banks of the river completely wooded, and a nature preserve just down river. In the morning and evening we have also seen many different bird species including osprey fishing the river, ducks, great blue herons, yellow warblers, northern rough-winged swallows, goldfinches, several kinds of sparrows and many red-winged blackbirds.

At the boat in Maine

2010-06-05T12:43:00.000-04:00

We arrived yesterday (Friday 4th) on a beautiful clear warm day (70deg not typical early June in ME). Now moved onto the boat in the yard. It is a rainy weekend so we left the winter shrink-wrap cover on. 120VAC power, the batteries and charger/inverter hooked up, and refrigeration working. On the hard, it's like living in an RV, except for having to climb a 10' ladder. But, it seems more like home than the apartment. Now we are just getting things organized aboard. It looks like we will be here 10 days or so working on the boat.

Near Earlville, NY

We had a good trip from Atlanta via I-77, I-81 to Harrisburg, PA then on US-15 north to Corning, NY an Ithaca where we stopped at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology and the Sapsucker Woods Bird Sanctuary. The next day on 2-lane blacktop roads across Central NY near where I grew up. Everything is so green there in early June. The trees are freshly leafed out, the grass is still green, and first hay being mowed.

Reached Atlanta

2010-05-30T08:00:00.000-04:00

All our "stuff" actually got stuffed into the Prius and we got on the road to Maine. Even with all the extra weight the handling and mileage did not suffer noticeably. We are spending the weekend with our daughter and family in Atlanta, and will head north tomorrow.

Leaving TX Later This Week

2010-05-23T10:54:00.000-04:00

We are getting ready to leave TX for Maine at the end of this next week. We expect to be in Yarmouth about a week later. Photo of Tropicbird with shrink-wrap cover about a month ago by Brian (S/V SOLMAR).